
When my Mom came to visit during my senior year of college I knew exactly how we were going to spend our time together. In between classes we would see the city and at night I would cook meals that would blow her socks off, finally convincing her I possessed culinary skill. Up until that point my family did not have an exceedingly high opinion of the food I made, and rightly so. When I left home at seventeen years old they had only seen me make two things successfully: Mac N’ Cheese from the box and apple cobbler. The latter was actually pretty good, but it later played a starring role in a kitchen fiasco that involved fire, smoke, a screaming landlord and a failed attempt to impress my then boyfriend (now husband).
But things had changed since then. Now I could make a grilled cheese without turning its crispy, golden crust into something that resembled congealed ashes. I could make scrambled eggs that were fluffy and firm, and seasoned so adeptly that ketchup was rendered unnecessary. And, perhaps most importantly, I had learned how to cook a pot of pasta without turning the noodles to mush. I think you will agree that these were all dramatic improvements.
However, my mother was unaware of these developments because she lived in California, while I studied in Massachusetts. Sure I shared my excitement over a perfectly puffed souffle but she didn’t believe me. In fact, if it weren’t for this blog my grandmother still wouldn’t believe that I can make brioche or pot pies from scratch. She needed the photographic evidence to sway her, not to mention your kind comments that prove the recipes I post really do work and that they really are scrumptious. Like, en serio Nana, I can cook.
This is what I was up against five years ago when my Mom stepped off that plane and I brought her home for dinner. I had obsessed over the menu for days, debating main courses and even cultural influences. Should I cook Mexican food, the cuisine of my heritage? Classic American? Italian? And what about dessert? Oh god! Many possible dishes were rejected before finally settling upon a baked rigatoni dish made with vegetables simmered in red wine. It was, and remains, one of my favorite meals, with its heavy cream, Romano cheese and overtones of thyme and rosemary. It’s the kind of dish you expect to find in fine restaurants and a meal that has since caused dinner guests to ask things like: “Are you sure you’ve never taken professional cooking classes?” Yes, this dinner was going to forever change the way my family saw me.
When we arrived home my Mom settled in and my boyfriend kept her company, while I went to work in the kitchen. I prepared the tomatoes, eggplant, onion, celery and zucchini, lightly fried them in olive oil, then added red wine, thyme and a dash of salt and pepper. While the wine reduced over a medium flame, I cooked the pasta. Both the finished pasta and the reduced vegetables were then added to a buttered casserole dish, tossed together, and generously drizzled with a sauce made from cream, Romano cheese, eggs, rosemary, parsley and nutmeg. Do you see how gourmet this dish is? Eveything baked until the cheese was slightly browned and, to top it all off, half-way through baking I sprinkled bread crumbs and freshly grated Parmesan cheese over the top. Not long afterwards, I opened the oven and was engulfed in the aroma of toasted cheese, herbs and vegetables.
As the pasta cooled I set the table with my finest dinnerware, placed a crisp salad on the table and unveiled a fresh loaf of bread from the bakery down the street (this was before my bread making days). I served the pasta and placed the plates before everyone.
It was at this point, about two seconds after I put the dish of finely prepared pasta in front of my Mom, that she quietly reached into her purse and pulled out a bottle of Cholula Mexican Hot Sauce. My jaw dropped, my voice caught, and before I could utter a word she began generously dousing her pasta with hot sauce. Hot sauce! On my gourmet dish! “What on earth are you doing?!” I whispered, finding my voice. “What?” she asked, and it was at this point that my boyfriend (now my husband) burst into laughter, knowing full-well how much work had gone into this and reacting to the mother-daughter situation the only way he knew how.
“Aren’t you going to at least try the pasta before drowning it in hot sauce?!” I asked, though given my Mom’s memory of my cooking I couldn’t blame her. “There are subtle flavors in there Mom, great flavors, flavors I agonized over! Rosemary, thyme, nutmeg! Cream Mom, cream! Red wine! And you are covering it with $5 hot sauce?” She stared at me in confused silence before the dawn of understanding traveled across her face. “Oh. I… uh… thought the hot sauce might help.”
Thank God I made more pasta than three people could possibly eat. Recovering from my shock I put fresh pasta - hot sauce free pasta - on another plate, placed it in front of my Mom, and said, “Just try one bite without the hot sauce. If you don’t like it you can have the other plate back. Trust me Mom. OK?”
With doubt-filled eyes she nodded, speared a noodle and a zucchini slice with her fork then, oh so hesitantly, put the contents in her mouth. My Mom is not someone who can mask her emotions, everything shows on her face, and you could plainly see her bracing herself, stealing herself, against the taste. But as she started to chew and the flavors of fine home cooking washed over her, she relaxed. “This is pretty good!” she exclaimed with surprise. “I’m impressed,” she continued, breaking off a piece of bread and smearing it in the pasta sauce, “I don’t think I need the Cholula.”
This is how my Mom discovered my cooking and now, with the benefit of years, we laugh about it. But to this day I place a bottle of Cholula Mexican Hot sauce on the table whenever I serve this dish to her. She blushes, I smile and my husband shakes his head. It’s our inside joke.
Baked Rigatoni with Red Wine Vegetables and Creamy Sauce
Adapted from “The Pasta Bible.”
Tools: Large casserole dish, knife, large pot, large saucepan, large bowl.
Ingredients: Makes 5-6 servings.
- 1 lb rigatoni
- butter for greasing the baking dish, about 1 tbs
- 4 tablespoons butter, melted
- 1 small eggplant, cut into small cubes
- 1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
- 2 celery stalks
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 3 large ripe tomatoes
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1/4 cup minced Vidalia onion
- 1 tablespoon dry thyme
- 1/2 cup dry red wine
- 1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
- Black pepper to taste
- 1 cup grated Romano cheese, freshly grated if possible
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 egg yolk plus 1 egg, whisked together
- 1 tablespoon mixed dry herbs: parsley & rosemary
- Salt and black pepper, to taste
- Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
- 1/4 cup fine white bread crumbs
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
For the cream sauce:
For the bread crumb topping:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F and put a large pot of water on to boil.
Remove the stem ends from your eggplant and cut the eggplant into small cubes. Thinly slice the zucchini and celery. Peel and mince the garlic. Mince the onion.
When the water has come to a boil cut a small X in the bottoms of your tomatoes, just deep enough to pierce the skin. Place the tomatoes in the water and blanch them for 1 to 2 minutes, until you see the skin begin to peel off. With a slotted spoon remove the tomatoes and place them in a large bowl filled with cold water. Peel, seed and dice the tomatoes. Set aside.
Rinse the pot and refill it with water. Set over high heat and bring the water to a boil.
In the meantime, heat the oil in your sauce pan and saute the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the eggplant, zucchini and celery, fry over high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the diced tomatoes and thyme, season with salt and pepper, and add the red wine. Cook uncovered over high heat until the vegetables are soft and the liquid has reduced by half. Remove from the heat when done. (A good way to judge whether the liquid has reduced by half is to stick the handle end of a wooden spoon into the pot just after the wine has been added. Now you have a visual measurement of how much liquid there was at the beginning. The mixture is done when the handle measures half of the original height.)
When the water has come to a boil add a generous dash or two of salt. Cook the rigatoni until almost al dente, about 1 minute less than the package recommended cooking time. While the pasta is cooking butter your casserole dish. Drain the pasta, add it to the casserole dish, then add in the vegetables. Mix well.
To make the creamy sauce whisk the Romano cheese with the cream and eggs, add the herbs and season with a pinch of salt, pepper and fresh nutmeg. One or two grates of the nutmeg should suffice. Pour the sauce over the pasta and vegetables.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, moistening the top occasionally with the melted butter. Halfway through baking mix the bread crumbs and Parmesan together, then sprinkle over the top of the dish and moisten with some of the melted butter. Allow the pasta to cool and set for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

















