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The Power of the Poolish

Bread Slices

Name any ingredient you can think of, and chances are you’ve seen it in a bread recipe. Seeds, fruits, vegetables, nuts, herbs, spices, eggs, oil, sugar… all make regular appearances in ingredient lists, and contribute to some wonderfully flavorful loaves.

And yet, at its simplest, truest, most essential core, bread comprises just four ingredients:

Flour. Water. Yeast. Salt.

Bread that sticks to these pedestrian ingredients can be sublime, the quintessential whole that far exceeds the sum of its parts. But don’t be fooled; simple does not mean easy to pull off. Coaxing maximal flavor from nothing more than a few handfuls of ground grain is a bread baker’s most fundamental challenge. If the challenge goes unmet, there are no supporting flavors to step in and pick up the slack.

Enter the preferment. In a preferment, a portion of of the dough’s flour is mixed with water and yeast (and sometimes other ingredients) and allowed to ferment for several hours before it is used in the final dough. This affords extra time for the production of organic acids, a main flavor component in bread. Preferments also make dough stronger and improve the shelf life of the bread.

There are several types of preferments; sponge, biga, and sourdough are some that may be familiar. One of the most common and easiest preferments is the poolish. Pronounced “poo-LEESH,” the name is thought to derive from the Polish bakers who invented and introduced it to Viennese bakers, who in turn brought it to France.

A poolish is a liquid preferment, usually equal parts water and flour by weight. It is a good choice when you want to add sweet, nutty, not overly acid tones to the dough. It is also a good choice when you want your dough to be extensible (easily stretched or rolled out), as for baguettes or croissants, but in any shape it yields a fine French bread with a light and open interior.

pain-sur-poolish

A poolish can be fermented, at room temperature, for as little as 3 hours, or as long as 12 hours or more. A longer fermentation yields a more complex flavor. For a shorter poolish fermentation, more yeast is used in the poolish, and less in the final bread dough.

The poolish is ready to be used when the surface is well-pebbled with bubbles and has several pronounced creases. It should not be frothy or have a very sunken appearance — this means it has fermented too long. This is what it should look like:

poolish

Many thanks to Ari for asking me to write this guest post! I usually blog about all things bread at Wild Yeast, and I’d love to see you over there too. –Susan Tenney

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Pain sur Poolish

Makes one large round loaf.

Poolish Ingredients:

  • 140 g bread flour or King Arthur All-Purpose Flour
  • 140 g water at room temperature
  • 1/32 t. (a very small pinch) instant yeast (this is for a 12-15 hour poolish; for a 7 – 8 hour poolish, use 1/8 t.; for a 3 hour poolish, use 1/4 t.)

Final Dough Ingredients:

  • 270 g bread flour or King Arthur All-Purpose Flour
  • 140 g water at room temperature
  • 5/8 t. instant yeast (1/2 t., 3/8 t.)
  • 8 g (1-1/3 t.) salt
  • All of the poolish

In a bowl, combine the poolish ingredients. Cover and let rest for 12 – 15 hours (7 – 8 hours, 3 hours).

In the bowl of a stand mixer with dough hook, combine all of the final dough ingredients except about 10% of the water. Mix in low speed to combine the ingredients. Add more water as needed to achieve a medium-soft, sticky dough.

Continue mixing in medium speed until the dough comes together around the hook and the gluten has reached a low-medium level of development according to the windowpane test. This might take about 8 minutes, but will depend on your mixer. The dough will still feel sticky.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled container. Cover and ferment for 1 hour and 15 minutes, with folds after the first 30 and 60 minutes.

Turn the dough into a lightly floured counter. Press the gas out assertively with your fingertips, then shape the dough into a tight ball. Let it rest, covered with a bowl, for 25 minutes.

Degas again and shape the dough into a tight ball. Place it, seam-side-up, into a basket that has been lined with a cotton or linen towel and dusted generously with flour.

Slip the basket into a plastic bag and proof the loaf for 1.5 hours at room temperature.

Meanwhile, place baking stone on the center oven rack. Place a shallow pan (a cast iron skillet is ideal but a broiler tray or baking pan works too) on the lower rack. Preheat the oven to 475F.

Turn the proofed loaf over onto a baking peel or the back of a baking sheet that has been dusted liberally with coarse semolina or fine cornmeal. With a sharp blade held perpendicular to the surface, slash a large X on the top of the loaf.

Slide the loaf onto the baking stone. With your hands protected by oven mitts, pour half a cup of water into the shallow pan below the stone. Quickly close the oven door and turn the temperature down to 450F.

Bake for 10 minutes. Open the oven door to vent any remaining steam, and remove th steam pan if there is any water left in it. Close the door and bake for another 25 minutes, until the crust is a deep brown. Then turn off the oven and leave the loaves in for another 10 minutes, with the door ajar; this helps the bread dry and yields a crisper crust.

Cool on a wire rack before cutting.

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Baking and Books features recipes & book reviews with culinary history sprinkled throughout. Many recipes are baking related but I give general cookery plenty of attention as well. :)

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