I first learned about madeleines about three years ago while my husband and I were watching “The Transporter” on television. There amidst scenes featuring crazed, gun-wielding villains, was a cozy little kitchen moment where the woman Frank Martin is protecting repays his kindness with a batch of freshly baked madeleines. “My mother used to make fresh madeleines every morning, ” she tells him, “I smell them and my whole childhood comes back in one big flood, like Proust.” I enjoy guy-flicks with their explosions and car chases as much as the next gal, but this is the scene I remember from the film. What were these delectable little things, these madeleines? Therein began my love affair not only with madeleines but with culinary history.

Though madeleines are often called “cookies” in America, they’re actually miniature sponge cakes. Traditionally baked in shell-shaped tins, they come in a variety of flavors such as honey, chocolate, lemon, orange and cinnamon. In this post I’m sharing two madeleine recipes, one for Honey Madeleines from Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts, and a personal recipe for Rosewater Madeleines. Since that fateful day when “The Transporter” introduced me to these sweets I’ve spent many an afternoon playing with different flavors, the result being that brunches in my home often include a tray of madeleines flavored with things like chai tea, orange-flower water or Mexican chocolate. I can’t help putting a mix together when company is over - how could I pass up an opportunity to bake dozens of madeleines without having the responsibility of eating all of them myself?

Ever since Proust wrote about madeleines in his “Remembrance of Things Past” the cakes have been associated with him, something even the writers of “The Transporter” saw fit to include in their script. Beyond that, a definitive association of anyone with madeleines is sheer conjecture - many chefs have tried to claim credit for their creation but the history of these cakes is a mystery. Back in 2004 ‘The Food Section’ featured an informative post about the origin of madeleines. Here Josh recounts two of the most popular legends about madeleines: the first attributes their creation to Jean Avice, pastry chef to French statesman Charles Talleyrand, who had the idea of baking a pound-cake mixture in aspic molds; the second traces madeleines to the French town of Commercy, which was then a duchy under the rule of King Stanisław Leszczyński of Poland. According to this legend, when the king visited the region in 1755 he was taken with a cake made by a peasant girl named Madeleine. So much so, in fact, that he ‘officially’ named the cookies madeleines and encouraged his daughter, Marie, to introduce them to high-society in Versailles. In Ladyfingers & Nun’s Tummies, author Martha Barnette offers yet another history, writing that “legend credits this elegant little cake’s creation to a nineteenth-century French chef, Madeleine Palmier.” However, culinary tomes such as “Larousse Gastronomique” think Palmier’s involvement was “doubtful.” The truth is that there are only three things that can be said about madeleines with any certainty: that “madeleine” is a French form of the word “magdalen” (as in Mary Magdalen, the disciple of Jesus); that madeleines are always associated with Commercy, France; and that nuns in 18th century France often supported their convents by making and selling madeleines. Indeed, up until the French Revolution, Commercy had a convent dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. (source)

Whatever their origins, madeleines are delightfully easy to make - the perfect treat for lazy Sunday mornings, or harried afternoons when all you want is something sweet with a cup of steaming coffee. This week both situations applied to me: I made rosewater madeleines this morning to celebrate the snow day at school (no teaching today!), and I also made them this past Thursday, when I stumbled into my apartment, exhausted after taking my Biblical Hebrew Grammar exam. I mentioned this dreaded exam in my last post, and the time between that entry and this one is due largely to the fact that I was studying biblical grammar 6+ hours a day for an entire week. Oy! Let no one question my determination to perform well on the test and please God let it have been worth it. By Wednesday evening I was dreaming in Biblical Hebrew and even suffered from a particularly disturbing nightmare where I desperately wanted to bake chocolate cupcakes but all the instructions in my cookbook had been changed into Hebrew verbs. “Noooo!” I shouted, as I realized that each verb had to be parsed before I could find out, for example, how much chocolate was needed. “Just give me chocolate!” my dream self screamed at the cookbook, “I need cupcakes!” Ahem. The test is over now though, and the restorative effects of honey madeleines and a honey-vanilla latte soon set things to right. Behold the awesome power of miniature sponge cakes and caffeinated beverages. I have included my recipe for a Honey-Vanilla latte below, in case you find yourself in need of spiritual revival in the future.

I have two more papers to write for school, but before I get back to work there is one piece of important business: I must announce who won a copy of Indulge! Once again the random number generator came to my rescue, saving me from the daunting task of choosing the winning number… which was #42, Astra Libris! Congratulations to the winner and come back soon because I’m giving away 6 copies of Food to Live By next. (Hint: This giveaway will be announced in one of the sidebars, not in a post.)

Honey Madeleines
Reprinted with permission from Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts, by Claire Clark.

Ingredients: Makes 14 large or 40 small madeleines.

• 3 1/4 oz unsalted butter, plus 1 oz melted butter for greasing the tins
• 2 teaspoons clear honey
• 2 medium eggs
• 2 3/4 oz caster sugar (superfine sugar, though I used confectioners sugar)
• 1/4 oz soft dark brown sugar
• a pinch of salt
• a few drops of vanilla extract
• 3 1/4 oz all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Brush the madeleine molds with the melted butter. Put the 3 1/2 oz of butter in a small pan with the honey and melt it, then cool slightly. Put the eggs in a large bowl with both the sugars, the salt and vanilla. Whisk until pale and doubled in volume. Sift the flour and baking powder together, then sift a second time. Fold them into the egg mixture with a large metal spoon, being careful not to lose any volume.

Pour the melted butter and honey down the side of the bowl so it floods on top of the mixture. Fold in gently, still being careful not to lose any volume. Cover the bowl with cling film and leave to rest in a cool place for 30 minutes.

Put the mixture into a piping bag fitted with a plain 1/2 inch nozzle and pipe it into the prepared madeleine tins, piping a fat, even, solid line down the center of each one. (I put about 1 tsp of batter into each mold using a spoon.) The mix will spread in the oven during baking, so there is no need for it to touch the sides of the mold. Place in the oven and bake for no more than 5 minutes for small madeleines, 10 minutes for large ones. Do not overcook them or they will be dry. As soon as they are done, flip over the molds and turn them out onto a wire rack. Serve warm.

Note: If you are going to purchase madeleine molds, I recommend you buy the metal ones. The flexible silicone molds do not color in quite the same fashion for this particular cake. I really like the crisp golden color crumb the butter gives on the outside of the cake, in contrast to the light sponge center. The metal molds give perfect results.

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Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts, by Claire Clark, is an inspiring collection of unique recipes that range in difficulty from moderate to complex. As an experienced home baker & cook I appreciated how this book challenged me to up the proverbial ante. Though recipes for things like apple and cinnamon charlotte, carrot cake and shortbread don’t require too much kitchen know-how, other recipes will force you to flex your culinary muscles. A recipe for Feuilles D’Automne (which consists of layers of hazelnut meringue sandwiched with a hazelnut chocolate mousse and covered in crisp chocolate leaves) requires you to know how to make meringue, mousse, and how to temper chocolate, for instance. Clark has helpfully included a “Secrets of Success” section at the beginning of each chapter, which is filled with tips that teach you how to master many of the skills utilized in the book. She also includes a useful index of UK to US conversions (which lets you know that what she calls “cornflour” is called “cornstarch” stateside), as well as notes with most recipes, where she guides you through especially difficult steps and shares tricks she has used in her own kitchen. Under her instruction ordinary gingerbread becomes a veritable feast for the senses, with individual gingerbreads covered with crystallized rose petals, syrup and butter cream. I was especially delighted with her recipe for “dumph noodle,” which is a kind of bread smothered with homemade crème anglaise. It was a tremendous hit with everyone who tried it and has been added to my list of favorite recipes.

Because the recipes in this book have such a wide range of difficulty, “Indulge” would best be enjoyed by someone with a solid foundation of culinary knowledge and a desire to greatly improve their skill. Anyone who can bake, cook and meringue their way through the entirety of this book will find themselves in possession of a wealth of invaluable know-how. The only caveat I would offer is this: unless you are already an accomplished baker/cook, many of the recipes will be daunting. I have yet to master Clark’s recipe for Turkish Delight, which though I’ve followed it to the letter three times, has ended in complete disaster on every occasion. When this happens I find myself thinking about those “Star Trek” moments when Bones would turn to Jim and say something like “I’m a doctor Jim, not a pilot!” Well, in my case I’m a baker not a candy maker, and I’m completely fine working through the learning curve. One of these days I will master the magic of Turkish delight! In the meantime I have my dumph noodle, honey madeleines, and many other scrumptious treats to keep me company.

Chapters include: Biscuits and Cookies; Cakes; Pastry; Meringues; Custards and Creams; Desserts, Mousses and Jellies; Puddings; Ices and Petits Fours. A “Suppliers” index is also included at the back of the book.

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Rosewater Madeleines (My Recipe)

Ingredients:

• 6 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 stick (4 oz) unsalted butter, melted (plus more for brushing the pan)
• 1 1/4 cup confectioners sugar, plus more for dusting
• A pinch of salt
• 4 large egg whites
• 1/4 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp rosewater

Preheat your oven to 325 degrees F. Brush the madeleine pan with melted butter or spray with Pam butter spray. Melt one stick (4 oz) of butter on the stove until it turns a light amber color. Sift the confectioners sugar, flour and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl mix the egg whites, vanilla extract and rosewater. Add the egg mixture to the to flour mixture, and whisk until combined. Add the melted butter and whisk again until everything is incorporated.

Using a teaspoon, fill your madeleine molds to just under the top of each mold. Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges of the madeleines are golden brown. Transfer the madeleines to a baker’s rack and dust with confectioners sugar. Serve warm.

Honey-Vanilla Latte (My Recipe)
Ingredients: Makes 1 generous serving

• 1 1/2 cups freshly brewed coffee. (I prefer to use whole beans, rather than pre-ground coffee. Grinding your beans just before brewing enhances the flavor of your beverage. Use 2 tbs of beans per 1 cup of water.)
• 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup steamed milk, depending on your tastes. (I used 1/2 cup)
• 1 generous tbsp + 1 tsp honey
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tbsp + 2 tsp heavy cream
• Whipped cream (optional)

Brew coffee using 2 tbs of ground beans per 1 cup of filtered water. As the coffee finishes brewing, add the heavy cream to the milk, then gently heat the mixture on the stove top or in the microwave (about 30-40 seconds in the microwave). Add the honey and vanilla to a large mug, then add the hot milk, then the coffee. Stir well using the spoon you used to measure the honey. Top with whipped cream if desired.

Pumpkin Brioche
Romance is something that has changed for me over the years. When my husband and I first started dating, flowers and chocolates were the standard. I loved it when I’d open the door and see him grinning from behind a beautiful bouquet, perhaps with a box of chocolate hidden behind his back. After almost five years together, two of them married, I’m amazed that he still does things like that. But I also think it’s funny how certain things are amazingly romantic nowadays - things that I probably wouldn’t have noticed or appreciated as much pre-marriage. Like when he makes the bed in the morning, or when he spends time cleaning the kitchen after I’ve cooked dinner because he knows I hate waking up to a messy apartment.

And then there are times when he completely outdoes himself, times when he makes my jaw drop and thoughts like “How on earth did I get so lucky??” run through my head. Times like this weekend, when he came home with a huge bag from ‘Bed, Bath & Beyond’ and I found this inside:

Yes, I added the sparkle. It was the only way to approximate the ‘heavens parting and angels singing’ feeling in text form. Whee!
Is it just me, or are kitchen appliances incredibly romantic? Needless to say, we couldn’t wait to make something with our new mixer. I decided to make brioche because after hand mixing and kneading breads for so long it was one of the few that required too much mixing/kneading for me to do it by hand. I looked through all my baking books and finally decided on pumpkin brioche. Spiced with ground cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, this bread smells heavenly and tastes divine.

The recipe is from one of my all-time favorite books, “The Bread Bible” by Beth Hensperger. I’ve posted three recipes from it before so this will be the last one (I have this rule about never posting more than four recipes from a book), but if you are ever in the market for an amazing collection of fool-proof recipes, this one is definitely worth getting. Chapters include quick breads, picnic breads, pancakes, waffles, crepes, popovers, muffins, celebrations breads, whole grain breads, and more, for a total of 300 delectable recipes. My favorites? Mexican Morning Buns, Spiced Applesauce Muffins, Bohemian Sweet Rolls, Hot Cross Buns with Dried Fruit, and Apple-Walnut Bread. I generally don’t like cookbooks without pictures, but I’ve been so happy with everything I’ve made that I’m more than willing to overlook it in this case. Also, I should note that Hensperger includes directions for mixing by hand and with a machine, as well as two chapters on making breads with food processors and bread machines. The recipe for pumpkin brioche was for brioche a tete but I wanted to make a loaf, so I modified the instructions using a basic brioche recipe found in “Breakfasts & Brunches” as a model.

Pumpkin Brioche
(View larger images)

Recipe is after the jump! I’ve included Hensperger’s by-hand instructions also - my arms were never strong enough to do it but if you happen to have a teenager in the house you may be able to bribe them into doing all the manual labor. This bread tastes especially good with a generous swath of apricot butter spread over a thick slice.

Pumpkin Brioche
Adapted from “The Bread Bible” by Beth Hensperger and “Breakfasts & Brunches” by The Culinary Institute of America.

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons warm water (105 to 115 degrees F)
• 1 tablespoon (1 package) active dry yeast
• Pinch of sugar
• 1 cup fresh or canned pumpkin puree at room temperature
• 3 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 4 large eggs, at room temperature. Plus 1 egg for the wash.
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into small pieces
• Egg wash: 1 egg yolk whisked with 1 tablespoon whole milk

Pour the warm water in a small bowl. Sprinkle the yeast and a pinch of sugar over the surface of the water. Stir to dissolve and let stand at room temperature until foamy, about 10 minutes.

In a large bowl using a whisk or in the work bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the pumpkin, 1 cup of the flour, sugar, salt and spices. Add the yeast mixture and beat until smooth.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually add 2 cups more flour. Add the butter a few pieces at a time and beat until incorporated. Add exactly 3/4 cup more flour and beat until creamy. The dough with be soft, sticky and batter-like. (It will not look like regular bread dough, that’s ok!) Switch to a wooden spoon when necessary if making by hand.

Scrape the dough into a greased deep container. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at a cool room temperature until doubled or tripled in bulk, about 3 hours. Gently deflate the dough and cover it tightly with plastic. Refrigerate overnight.

Gently deflate the dough. Turn out onto a floured surface, flour your hands and gently form into a large ball. Pat into a flat circle shape large enough for the dough to be divided into 8 equally sized pieces. Cut into 8 pieces using a knife or pizza cutter, then shape each piece into a ball and place in a lightly greased loaf pan in two rows of four. Brush the dough lightly with egg wash, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at a cool room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Half an hour before baking, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Place the pan on a rack in the center of the oven and bake for 20 minutes . Reduce the thermostat to 350 degrees F and bake 10-15 minutes more, or until the loaf is browned, slightly crisp and has a hollow sound when tapped. Remove from oven and cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove from pan and cool completely on a wire rack before slicing and serving.