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T Minus 20 Hours
Monday, April 9th, 2007
“When I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and it is all one.” - M. F. K. Fisher

Passover ends in approximately 20 hours and let me tell you: am I excited. Not that I’ve been keeping track or anything, but it has been 168 hours since I last buttered a warm piece of bread. 604,800 seconds since anything was lovingly mixed and kneaded in my kitchen. I acknowledge how eight days without flour makes you appreciate the magic of baked goods, but we went grocery shopping this afternoon and the bagels now sitting on our counter are mocking me. Damn you bagels! Revenge shall be mine.

While it would be reasonable to assume that I’ll be placing dough in my oven at sundown tomorrow, the truth is that my renewed adventures with baking will have to wait until Wednesday morning. Why the delay? Because tomorrow also happens to be our second wedding anniversary and we’ll be out celebrating. We have an entire foodie day planned, with pommes frites and chocolate in the afternoon (before bread is allowed) and tapas in the evening (with as many flour-inclusive dishes as possible). Two years! Hard to believe, but true. Love

Honey-Vanilla Challah

Honey-Vanilla Challah

On Wednesday morning we’ll revive our oven with a loaf of Honey Vanilla Challah, which is a sweet version of the popular Jewish egg bread. I’ve included the recipe in this post and it’s near and dear to me because this was the first bread recipe I ever called my own. After baking many loaves and following many recipes, one afternoon I decided that I wanted to combine the best aspects of each loaf into one. The result was the bread you see here, which is sweet, but not too sweet, fluffy, and yet firm. I love to eat it plain or with a generous swath of apple butter. It also makes fantastic french toast.

Before the recipe, two things: First, I want to thank everyone who took the time to comment on my last post. I know it was a bit of a downer, but you cheered me tremendously and for that I’m grateful. You’re the best! And second, I want to point out the rotating food factoids and quotations next to the “Baking and Books” header, as well as the Recipe Index, both of which are new features. There is a new layout as you can see and, while modifications will continue over the next few days, for the moment I’m happy with how everything looks. Feedback, as always, is very much appreciated. :)

Honey-Vanilla Challah (My Recipe)
Adapted from “The Bread Bible” by Beth Hensperger, “The Good Enough to Eat Breakfast Cookbook” by Carrie Levin, “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice” by Peter Reinhart and “The Bread Bible” by Rose Levy Beranbaum, among others.
Ingredients: Makes 1 Loaf

  • 1/2 tablespoon active dry yeast
  • 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup of warm milk (whole is best, low-fat is ok too)
  • 2 eggs + 1 for the glaze
  • 4 tablespoons of olive oil + 1 teaspoon for greasing the bowl and another for the glaze
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon honey

In a large bowl using a whisk combine the yeast, sugar, salt and 1 cup of the flour. Add the warm milk, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, then the honey and vanilla. (Add the olive oil first, then use the same measuring spoon to add the honey - residual oil on the spoon will make the honey slide right out.) Vigorously mix the ingredients until smooth, scraping the sides of the bowl halfway through, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, switching to a wooden spoon when the dough becomes too thick for the whisk. Continue mixing the dough until it is too stiff to stir.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until soft and springy, about 4 minutes. If the dough is sticky, dust with flour 1 tablespoon at a time - just enough to prevent it from sticking to the surface. The dough is done when it’s smooth and small air bubbles show under the skin. If you press your thumb into it the impression should bounce back. This is a slightly firm dough, which is exactly what you want for easy braiding later on.

Place the dough in a deep container greased with 1 tsp of olive oil. Turn the dough once to coat the top and cover with plastic wrap. Allow it to rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or lightly grease it with non-stick spray. Gently deflate the dough by pressing your fingers into it, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.
Divide into 3 equal portions, and roll each portion out into a smooth, thick strip about 20 inches long, with the ends slightly thinner than the middle. Lay these ropes side-by-side, not quite touching.

Beginning in the middle and working towards you, braid the lower half of the three ropes. To braid, alternately move the outside ropes over the one in the center - left over, right over, left over -until you come to the end. Now go to the other side of your working space and braid the other half, this time moving the outside ropes under the center one. Braid tightly - you don’t want any gaps. When you finish braiding each side crimp the tapered ends together, then tuck them under.

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F and place the braided dough on your baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until almost doubled in bulk, 30 to 40 minutes.

Just before the rising time has finished whisk together 1 egg and 1 teaspoon of olive oil, this is going to be the glaze for your bread. Gently brush the dough with a thick layer of it. Place the dough in the oven and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the bread is a deep golden brown and sounds hollow when you thump it on the bottom. Transfer to a baking rack to cool. Allow to cool completely before slicing - or at least wait until it’s warm, not hot - then enjoy!

Ethiopian Siga Wot
Tuesday, April 3rd, 2007
“One of the delights of life is eating with friends, second to that is talking about eating. And, for an unsurpassed double whammy, there is talking about eating while you are eating with friends.” - Laurie Colwin

Last night we celebrated the first night of Passover at a relative’s house, where I was asked to prepare “a meat dish to introduce guests to new things.” “Nothing too weird,” the hostess told me, “but maybe something that will add some extra culture to the dinner?” Given my penchant for history, folklore and plain ol’ good food I jumped at the chance to bring something new to the Seder. I spent about an hour browsing through my books on African and Israeli cuisine, then flipped through the more esoteric sections of my texts on Jewish cooking. In the end I selected an Ethiopian dish called “Siga Wot,” which is a fragrant beef stew spiced with cloves, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg. As soon as we arrived at M’s house I began slicing onions and dicing garlic, then added the stew meat and other ingredients to her gorgeous Le Creuset soup pot. An hour and a half later the siga wot was ready, just as the Seder ceremony was wrapping up. We served it after the matzah ball soup and I shared its cultural background while we all chatted about food and flavors and favorite dishes. I’m happy to report that both the siga wot and its story were a hit. :)

Ethiopian Siga Wot
Ethiopian Siga Wot
(View larger image here)

What does Ethiopian cuisine have to to with Jewish cooking you might wonder? Quite a lot actually. Judaism has a long and ancient history in Ethiopia where, according to legend, the Queen of Sheba ruled during the 10th century B.C.E. In the Bible, Kings 10:1-13 tells the story of her visit to the court of King Solomon, who reigned over Israel at the time and was renowned for his great wisdom. Arriving in Jerusalem with a caravan of camels carrying spices, gold and precious stones, she apparently wanted to size the king up by testing his knowledge with difficult questions. The text tells us that “Solomon answered all her questions” then he “gave the Queen of Sheba all she desired” before she returned to her own country. This latter part of the story, the part where the queen received everything she wished, has often been interpreted as a reference to a sexual encounter. Indeed, some have maintained that the Queen of Sheba conceived a child by Solomon, and in the Middle Ages a text known as the Kebra Nagast elaborated upon this tradition, writing that the queen’s son by Solomon eventually became Menelik I, the first Emperor of Ethiopia. Other legends connecting Ethiopia and Judaism maintain that Ethiopian Jews, collectively known as “Beta Israel” (The House of Israel), are descended directly from Moses or from the Tribe of Dan. They share many of the beliefs associated with traditional Judaism, including the observance of Shabbat and the biblical holidays.

In “A World of Jewish Cooking,” author Gil Marks quotes an Ethiopian native named David Solomon as saying: “Because of poverty… many Westerners believe that Ethiopian dining is a contradiction in terms. However,” he continues, “the Beta Israel possess a simple but tasty cuisine making use of sparse resources… Ours is a peasant cuisine, simple but flavorful.” Ethiopians generally eat two meals a day - breakfast and dinner, with snacks of roasted corn kernels or seeds in between. Vegetable wots (stews) are common for breakfast, while meat, if available, is usually reserved for the evening meal. A pancake bread called injera is a popular accompaniment, though of course I couldn’t make that for Passover since it’s made with flour. :) Injera is made in large batches and can be up to one and a half feet in diameter. Each guest pulls off a piece of the bread, scoops wot into it, then folds it between their fingers before popping the whole thing into their mouths.

Injera
An Ethiopian woman making injera (source)

With its warm flavor and succulent texture siga wot is an easy dish to try if you’re looking for something new to do with the beef (or lamb) sitting in your refrigerator. It’s also an excellent conversation starter, which is always a desirable quality if you ask me.

Siga Wot
Adapted from “A World of Jewish Cooking” by Gil Marks.
Ingredients: Serves 6

  • 5 large yellow onions, chopped
  • 1/3 cup olive or vegetable oil (I used olive oil)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger ( I used 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger)
  • 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 1/2 pounds boneless beef or lamb chuck, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg, fresh if possible
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

In a dry large skillet or a large soup pot over medium heat, cook the onions, stirring constantly, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes.

Add the oil. When the oil begins to sputter, add the garlic and ginger and saute until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and 1/2 cup of the water. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is reduced to the consistency of heavy cream, about 8 minutes.

Add the meat, tossing until well coated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup water, the salt, and the spices. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1 hour (I let it simmer for 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally). Add a little more water if the liquid reduces too much.

Note: Susan asked if you can also make this dish with chicken and the answer is: yes! You can also make a chicken wot, called “Doro Wot,” using the same ingredients - except for the beef, of course. :) Instead use 1 three to four pound chicken, cut into about 12 pieces. A few hardboiled eggs (4 or 5) are often added to chicken wots too. Add them whole, piercing numerous 1/2 inch deep holes along the sides of each egg. Place the eggs in the wot right before it is served, tossing to coat well.

 
 
 
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